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Art exhibition, Behind the Scenes, Indigo Perfumery, Perfumes

A Peak into Palettes for the Senses

 

Palettes sign

 

Palettes for the Senses: Art + Scent Demystified is a multi-sensory exhibition by Indigo Perfumery and HEDGE Gallery that allows you to experience art through all of the senses, including the sense of smell.

This new approach to viewing and interpreting art begins with works by Hedge-represented artists. Each piece of art is accompanied by a smell station containing a glass dome that is lifted to sniff the accompanying fragrance curated by Indigo Perfumery. Combining the visual and olfactory elements allows you to experience the art in a whole new way.

Indigo is also offering the Palettes for the Senses Sampler Set at Indigo. You will receive six 1 ml. spray samples (After the FloodSulmonaDupont CircleFathom VAnabasisAu Coeur Du Desert) plus a surprise fragrance that you won’t forget!

Palettes for the Senses is open until March 4th at HEDGE Gallery. Local Cleveland residents are invited to experience this intimate and immersive adventure that highlights scent as an avenue of engaging the viewer on a visceral level.

For further details, go HERE.

Here is your chance to experience all seventeen of the artworks with the accompanying fragrances paired by Indigo:

Rebecca Cross:

Shield (pink spikes) 2017 Medium: Silk, Dye 20” x 15”

Shield (pink spikes), 2017
Medium: Silk, Dye 20” x 15”

Shield (pink spikes) 2017

Perfume pairing: Dupont Circle by Monsillage

While seemingly delicate, Shield (pink spikes)’s inherent strength is reflected in the beauty of the rose, the main floral note in Dupont Circle. The cedar, patchouli and oakmoss in its base offer strength and grounding.

 

 

 

 

 

Shield (green spikes) 2017 Medium: Silk, Dye 25” x 30”

Shield (green spikes), 2017
Medium: Silk, Dye 25” x 30”

 Shield (green spikes) 2017

Perfume pairing: Lumen_esce by Nomenclature

Lumen_esce bubbles with transparency when first encountered, as does the silk in Sheild (green spikes). The sizzling violet heart note shoots forward, emulating the spikes of silk that reach out to greet the observer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Matthew Gallagher:

Growth; Bos Taurus 2017 Medium: Encaustic on Bone

Growth; Bos Taurus, 2017                       Medium: Encaustic on Bone

Growth; Bos Taurus 2017

Perfume pairing: Anabasis by Apoteker Tepe

Encountering a skull calls to mind the scent of both life and death. Earthy, musty, adventurous, mysterious, Anabasis walks you closely up to its smooth, yet irregular, texture.

 

Matthew and Luke Gallagher:

Growth Mantra 2017

Growth Mantra 2017 Medium: Encaustic on Panel

Growth Mantra, 2017
Medium: Encaustic on Panel

 

 

Perfume pairing: Lonestar Memories by Tauer

Smell the sweet saddle leather on a dusty Texas ranch, with smoke settling on the older and wiser animal’s antlers…

 

 

 

 

 

Meghann Hennen:

Mind.Body.Soul.  2016

Perfume pairing:  Artist’s own creation by Meghann Hennen

Mind.Body.Soul. 2016 Medium: Acrylic paint, chalk, varnish, graphite on canvas 4.5' x 4.5'

Mind.Body.Soul. 2016
Medium: Acrylic paint, chalk, varnish, graphite on canvas 4.5′ x 4.5′

 

 

Christopher Kier:

Transitional Object Studies: Studies I,II,III, 2016 Medium: Encaustic and Mixed Media on Canvas 9" x 50" x 3

Transitional Object Studies: Studies I,II,III, 2016
Medium: Encaustic and Mixed Media on Canvas 9″ x 50″ x 3

Transitional Object Studies: Studies I,II,III  2016

Perfume pairing: Falling Into the Sea by Imaginary Authors 

An encaustic work can be smooth to the touch, yet one senses the complexity of depth below the surface, very similar to the sea. Falling Into the Sea calls to mind the salt, sea and wind with its cheerful scent and uplifting notes.

 

David Masters:

David Masters: June 14, 2015 Medium: Digital Prints, 16” x 20”

June 14, 2015
Medium: Digital Prints, 16” x 20”

June 14, 2015

Perfume pairing: Brezza di Mare by i Profumi di Firenze

Standing on the sand, contemplating the clouds and surf… the freshness of the ocean breeze, combined with the salty air… the understated scent of sea & sand…

August 17, 2015  

August 17, 2015 Medium: Digital Prints, 16” x 20”

August 17, 2015
Medium: Digital Prints, 16” x 20”

Perfume pairing: L’Attesa  by Masque Milano

Evening is here, with the summer heat and dry earth evident as you pull to the side of the road. L’Attesa  recalls the dusty dryness of iris and still beauty at hand with creamy sandalwood and smoky leather.

 

 

 

Liz Maugans:

Fractured Atlas, 2017

Perfume pairing: Molecule 02

A collection of pieces, a collection of notes. With a slight mineral-like edge to it, Molecule 02 is also transparent and cohesive, much like the amalgamation before you.

Fractured Atlas, 2017 Mixed Media paper, 11" x 17"

Fractured Atlas, 2017
Mixed Media paper, 11″ x 17″

Brian Mouhlas:

Fireworks [Temple] 2016 Medium: Oil on canvas 47.25” x 63.75”

Fireworks [Temple] 2016
Medium: Oil on canvas 47.25” x 63.75”

Fireworks [Temple] 2016

Perfume pairing: Indochine by Belle Fleur

A beautiful evening, illuminated by fireworks amongst the tropical trees- Indochine takes you to a region of the world redolent with spice, exotic woods and sensual accords that are warm and seductive.

 

 

Trace 2016

Trace 2016 Medium: Oil on canvas 30.25” x 30”

Trace 2016
Medium: Oil on canvas 30.25” x 30”

Perfume pairing: Fathom V by Beaufort London

Surrounded by a haze of green textures and rippling waters, Fathom V reflects light and shade, bright herbals and dark mosses and spices.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jessica Pinsky:

Equal I, 2017 Medium: Partly Handspun Weft And Cotton Warp, 60” x 60”

Equal I, 2017
Medium: Partly Handspun Weft And Cotton Warp, 60” x 60”

Equal I, 2017

Perfume pairing: Au Coeur Du Désert by Tauer

Au Coeur Du Désert weaves spices such as Coriander and Cumin alongside long-lasting woods and greens, much like Equal I organizes its fibers into a chorus of deep colors and textures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Katy Richards:

The Brit, 2016

Perfume pairing: Aqua Sextius by Jul et Mad

Full of aromatic fruit, the hint of water and movement, Aqua Sextius (and The Brit) are both refreshing and complex.

The Brit, 2016 Medium: Oil on Panel 20” x 16”

The Brit, 2016
Medium: Oil on Panel 20” x 16”

 

Seaweed, 2015 Medium: Oil on Panel 48” x 36”

Seaweed, 2015
Medium: Oil on Panel 48” x 36”

Seaweed 2015

Perfume pairing: Entre Ciel et Mer by Pierre Guillaume

Delicate fruits, Pacific sea algae, lichen and moss- all are notes in Entre Ciel at Mer as well as depicted in Richards’ Seaweed. A journey under the open sea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dott von Schneider:

Earth, 2017

Perfume pairing: After the Flood by Apoteker Tepe

The scent of the many textures of earth itself- soil, rocks, gooey wetness- are captured in After the Flood. Add in mushroom, patchouli and green cardamom and the wet soil accord comes alive before you. 

Earth, 2017 Medium: Soil, Primer, Dye on Birch Panel, 23” x 34”

Earth, 2017
Medium: Soil, Primer, Dye on Birch Panel, 23” x 34”

 

Nikki Woods:

Sugar Shack 2016

Perfume pairing: Sulmona by Coquillete Paris  

Standing in the kitchen, licking your fingers and surrounded by sweet smells is where both Sugar Shack and Sulmona immediately take you to.

Sugar Shack, 2016 Medium: Oil on Canvas 25.5” x 23.5”

Sugar Shack, 2016
Medium: Oil on Canvas 25.5” x 23.5”

 

Forbidden Forest 2016

Perfume pairing: Go Ask Alice by En Voyage

You are almost lost in this abstract forest scene, taking in the colors and textures. And then you begin to feel a calm happiness as Go Ask Alice reassures you with its joyous celebration of green, fruit and floral notes, culminating with a luscious dry down.

Forbidden Forest, 2016 Medium: Oil on Canvas 36” x 30”

Forbidden Forest, 2016
Medium: Oil on Canvas 36” x 30”

Blocked senses
Behind the Scenes, In Conversation..., Indigo Perfumery

Blocked Senses

Not one thing. No smell. No taste.

 

Salty nuts? Warm and tasty broth? Aromatic herbs? Spicy sauce?

 

No. Nothing came through these blocked senses.

 

We had just returned from a trip to Spain full of sensory gratification. Between the sweet flowering orange trees, mimosa blooms bursting and plenty of gourmand smells wafting out of the restaurants, our noses were working overtime. And, of course, we were also trying to avoid the smokers. Most of the country seems to ignore that smoking is not good for one’s health.

 

Within a few days after returning on the plane (otherwise known as a germ-laden tube), we both came down with a respiratory virus unlike any we had ever had before (which thankfully is very rare). It only took a couple of days before my clogged sinuses apparently crossed the line and all taste and smells diminished… diminished… and were gone.

 

Suddenly my food tasted like cardboard. Dry. Crumbled plaster came to mind. My mouth was… there. I could not eagerly anticipate the smells of dinner in the making. No basil in the sauce? No tomatoes, garlic or onions. Grilled meats on the barbie? Couldn’t tell- I just saw that the grill was on and an occasional plume of smoke escaped. Drinking a cold drink was not refreshing.

 

But the worst of it was I could no longer smell the perfumes in my perfume boutique. I opened the doors in the morning and knew that I should be met with the immediate need to air the store out before opening but no, nothing. I of course proceeded to open the two sets of doors for the cross breeze and turned the fans and vent on high, but it seemed for naught. Intellectually I knew it was needed.

 

After a week, I began to worry- what if this became a permanent loss? OMG! What would I do? I knew the perfumes in the shop pretty well by now so could still guide customers, but this was certainly not ideal. And we were having a well-known perfumer visit the boutique at the end of the week.

 

Anosmia (the absence of smell) and ageusia (the absence of taste), although not well known, are often responsible for lethargy and depression. Who knew how much we take the senses of smell and taste for granted? As a matter of fact, we usually do not even think about the sense of smell. The act of smelling is automatic, reflexive and immediate. When that is suddenly taken away, you feel a certain disconnect with the world. Cooking with your nose is not possible. Knowing something is burning is no longer available to you. How would I know if there was a fire?

 

Each day was a further reminder of how important the senses of smell and taste were. During the average day, every person takes more than 20,000 breaths. The anosmia meant I could no longer smell my husband wearing his favorite cologne. Or my dog. Or the fresh bunch of jasmine in the store. Each breath provides the opportunity to develop or recall a different memory or emotion. That is if you can smell.

 

Two days before Indigo Perfumery’s event, I thought I tasted the toothpaste for a second. An hour later I thought is that really the taste of oranges in the fresh orange juice that my husband prepared or my imagination?  I felt like the luckiest person alive as throughout the day, I slowly began to taste my food and even smell the new line of perfumes that had just arrived. The smoked salmon was almost overwhelming. A few times smells disappeared, only to return after blowing my nose.

 

A true blessing. With my smell and taste having fully returned, I am more aware than ever of their importance. I’ll take the good with the bad.

 

I am grateful. Spring’s renewal has taken on a new meaning!

 

 

Behind the Scenes, In Conversation..., New Releases

Meet Deco London Founder

Indigo recently welcomed the elegant perfumes of Deco London into Indigo Perfumery’s curated collection. And now it is time to introduce you to the lovely Sophia Fannon-Howell, its founder and creator, whom I’ve had the privilege of getting to know over the past few months.

 

   

Sophia sm     Can you tell us a little bit about yourself? 

I am a mother of two children ages 9 and 7 (my greatest achievement!) I am a Dr of Geology, business owner, entrepreneur and have worked in industry for over 17 years.

I was born and raised in Surrey, England and am descended from poet, satirist and Restoration RakeJohn Wilmot

John Wilmot 2nd Earl of Rochester and Grace O’Malley the Irish ‘Pirate’ Queen.

Perhaps that’s where I get my love of history!

 

What led you decide to focus on perfumes? 

 

I’ve always been drawn to fragrance, but my journey really began when I became interested in essential oils, aromatherapy and perfumery back in 2004, when I began creating fragrances for skincare products.
I had a vision to create a brand to share my love of history and bring the elegance and glamour of times past to a modern audience. Using the medium of fragrance seemed the perfect way to do this and so the idea for Deco was born.

 

How did you come up with your particular scent ideas?

 

For me historical periods and characters are vivid in my imagination. The personalities of 1920s London were larger than life, glamorous, hedonistic, tragic and elegant, coming to terms with a new changing world. I wanted to capture those characters in the fragrances I created.

 

The 1920s was also a time of great advancements in perfumery when many classic perfumes and modern perfume families (oriental, chypre etc.) were created. I looked at the fashionable fragrances and fragrance notes and took inspiration from them.

 

How did you determine which fragrance house to go with?

 

As I was new to the fragrance industry I needed to find some experts to help me create my vision and who understood the challenges faced by a startup company.  deco party

 

I approached Robertet as they create perfumes for some of the biggest brands in the world and have a UK office near to London. Robertet were founded in 1850, so have a long history, which fitted very nicely with the Deco London brand.

They are also the world leader in natural, sustainable and organic ingredients and the only company to fully integrate every stage in the creative process “from Seed to Scent”. This really appealed to me as I have a particular interest in naturals.

 

Robertet enjoy working with new brands and their perfumers were really excited by my brief. They are also a lovely bunch of people!

 

Do you have a holy grail beauty / wellness product you like to use? 

lavender     I still have a love of essential oils. They not only smell great but they possess therapeutic          benefits. I always travel with a little bottle of lavender oil. If my skin is stressed I mix a drop of Lavender essential oil into my moisturizer before I apply it. If I can’t sleep, a few drops on my pillow at night or dabbed on my temples works wonders. I also put a few drops of lavender oil in my children’s bath every evening to calm them down!

 

What fragrances do you like to wear? 

 

I love lots of different fragrances, but I am a vintage Guerlain girl at heart. There is something about that slightly old fusty scent that I love. I also love Chanel No 5, but I don’t like the modern version. I buy vintage bottles on eBay!

 

Were there any especially helpful persons along the way?

 

Everyone I have met in my Deco London journey has been really helpful, but if I have to single someone out it would have to be Robertet. They have been so supportive of both my brand and me. It can be a lonely ride setting up a business, creating a product and taking it to market, but having experts like Robertet at my side has filled me with confidence.

 

In addition to working closely with me on my fragrances, they visit me twice a year at home to give me a personal preview of all the key perfume releases and trends, they give input for PR and marketing and they even give me little samples of the raw ingredients in my perfumes to show customers.

 

Which designers or artists do you look up to or are inspired by?

 

I love Alexander McQueen; his designs were so exciting, exotic and daring and the cut was impeccable. The recent ‘Savage Beauty’ Exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London was absolutely mesmerising. He was a genius.

 

I love Ralph Steadman’s Gonzo art, my husband and I have a number of his prints and I also admire British guerrilla artist Banksy’s work. I think I like art with a rebellious edge to it!

Behind the Scenes, Indigo Perfumery, Perfumes

CINNAMON in Perfumery

 

Ceylon cinnamon

Ceylon cinnamon

 

 

Cinnamon in a perfume? Customers are often surprised when I answer their question “What am I smelling? I can’t put my finger on it.”

Too often cinnamon is associated with that all too potent potpourri smell of the holiday season- you know, the smell that clings to your clothes for days? Thankfully the perfumers of our four perfumes have fine noses and know when enough is perfect.

 

 

The true cinnamon, C. Verum or zeylanicum is from Sri Lanka (formerly known as Ceylon). It is an evergreen, aromatic tree that must be grown for at least two years before its bark can be cut. After harvesting, the stems must be immediately processed while its inner bark is still wet. The outer bark is first scraped off, the stem is beaten to loosen the inner bark, which then allows the inner bark to be pried off in long rolls which are cut to exactly 4.2 inches long.

 

In America, Cinnamomum cassia or Cinnamomum aromaticum are used because they are sweeter and more aromatic, although they are inferior to the Ceylonese cinnamon. You can tell the difference by smell as well as looks: Ceyonese cinnamon sticks (also known as quills) use only the inner bark and have numerous thin layers with a subtle and aromatic flavor and smell, whereas the C. cassia sticks, using all layers of the bark, are much harder, harsher and stronger in taste and smell.

 

Cinnamon is a well known medicinal spice high in antioxidants, and noted for its boost to mood and memory, for lowering blood sugar and “bad” cholesterol (LDL), for stopping the growth of bacteria in food, for alleviating sinus headaches or migraines and for preventing the onset of cold or flu.

Cinnamon quills can be stored for periods of years as long as they are not a powder.

In perfumery, only Ceylonese cinnamon is used. According to Mandy Aftel, in her must read book, Fragrant, “Cinnamon opens with warm, sweet, candy-like notes, and finishes with a powdery, dry wood.”

 

Cinnamon most often is used as a heart note, imparting a warmth and lightness to other notes.

It takes a very small amount before it overtakes the perfume, so a very light touch is advised.

 

Fragonard 3
Behind the Scenes

Fragonard: A Bit of Beauty in Grasse

Not able to make it to Grasse this spring?

We couldn’t either, so we decided to make a digital visit instead. Why wait?

Fragonard, founded by Eugene Fuchs in 1926, was named after the famous painter Jean-Honoré Fragonard. It was housed in a perfume-making building dating back to 1782. Today, the building is considered to be the historic perfume factory, along with the Fragonard Perfume museum which is housed on its first floor.

Fragonard’s perfumes, cosmetics and home products are now created in their factory built in 1986 just outside of Grasse, where they combine their traditional “craft methods with the most modern production techniques.” Named the Fabrique des Fleurs, it is surrounded by gardens of fabulous flowers that are used in the creation of perfume.

Many of the photos below were captured by Martin Morrell for the Vogue Living‘s “Making Scents” story Conversation Piece, a story on Fragonard’s perfume museum curated by Carolyn Quartermaine.

The Museum of Perfumes
au 1er Etage de l’Usine Historique
20 bd Fragonard
06130 Grasse
FRANCE
Tél: +33 (0) 4 93 36 44 65
Fax: +33 (0) 4 93 36 57 32

 

 

Fragonard 1

A fresco forms the backdrop in a former photographer’s studio in the Perfume Museum.

 

A few pieces of family history, antique fragrance labels and perfume bottles from the Fragonard family:

 

Fragonard 5

 

 

Fragonard4b

 

 

 

Fragonard 6

 

 

Fragonard Museum

Antique perfume still

 

 

New Fragonard

Modern Fragonard perfume making

Floris' original and beautifully preserved façade under a summer flush of flowers
Behind the Scenes, Perfumes

FLORIS: PAST, PRESENT & FUTURE

This London history chapter actually began in 1730 when Juan Famenias Floris arrived in London from his native country, Menorca, Spain. He came to England with the intention of being a barber and comb-maker and set up shop in the elegant quarter of London called St. James along with his wife, Elizabeth. Because he missed the scents and flowers of his native country, Juan began to mix his own oils and scents which soon became in demand. Thus Floris began to sell perfumes and toilet waters.

 

The shop, at 89 Jermyn Street, remains the heart of the business today and is now run by the family’s ninth generation of descendants.

The Floris family lived in the Jermyn Street location until the mid 1800s. All perfumes were made in “The Mine” 2 floors below until the 1970s. Floris London is presently the oldest English retailer of toiletries and accessories and second oldest in the world after FARINA GEGENÜBER GmbH of Cologne, Germany.

 

Floris stairs

The steps leading down to “The Mine,” accessed from the basement and through a trap door at the back of the store.

 

Fortunately, Juan Famenias Floris faithfully recorded the formulas so they could be reproduced. “We’re fortunate that previous generations have been careful about handing down family documents, letters and formulas,” said Edward Bodenham, the current the Floris ‘nose’ and 9th generation of the Floris family.

 

The coal stove that was used to provide heat and warm ingredients

The coal stove that was used to provide heat and warm ingredients

 

In 1870, Mary Anne Floris married James R.D. Bodenham. In July 1871, the first of their children was born. Shortly after this they settled in West London at ‘Ivy Lodge,’ the family home where they would continue to live for 50 years.

 

In 1878, James and Mary Anne took over the family business from Mary Anne’s brother Joseph.

 

The ladies bottling the Floris perfumes

The ladies bottling the Floris perfumes

 

Floris received their first Royal Warrant as Smooth Pointed Comb Maker to HM The King George IV in 1820. Expertly made combs were a speciality of Floris at this time and greatly valued by the company’s elite clientele.

 

Today, Floris is the only Appointed Perfumer to Her Majesty, the Queen and holds two Royal warrants: Perfumers to HM The Queen Elizabeth II and Manufacturers of Toilet Preparations to HRH The Prince of Wales.

 

 

Old leather bound ledgers containing formulas and notes

Old leather bound ledgers containing formulas and notes

 

To satisfy increasing demand, in 1989 the family set up a factory in Devon which was officially opened by HRH Princess Diana.

It is here that all Floris products continue to be made.

 

Winston Churchill's receipt

Winston Churchill’s receipt

 

The 89 Jermyn Street location retains the original and beautifully preserved façade.

Its interior still features the solid mahogany, Spanish-made display cabinets, purchased at the Great Exhibition of 1851 in Hyde Park.

 

 

Marilyn Monroe's "other perfume" receipt

Marilyn Monroe’s “other perfume” receipt

 

The family opened the doors to its second shop at the prestigious location of 147 Ebury Street, Belgravia.

 

Old bottles in "The Mine"

Old bottles in “The Mine”

 

Some of their customers over the years include Queen Victoria and Prince Albert (Floris created Bouquet De La Reine as a wedding present for the 21-year old Queen Victoria as she prepared to marry the love of her life in February 1840), Florence Nightingale, Beau Brummell, Winston Churchill, Ian Fleming (Ian Fleming’s James Bond always wore No. 89), Errol Flynn, Oscar Wilde, Michael Caine, Sir Ralph Fiennes, Brian Ferry, Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Sir Winston Churchill, Vivien Leigh, Wallis Simpson, Marilyn Monroe, Emma Thompson and Lady Margaret Thatcher.

 

 

More old scales and heavy tools to seal bottle lids

More old scales and heavy tools to seal bottle lids

 

Michael Bodenham (7th generation descendant) composing in "The Mine" during the '50s

Michael Bodenham (7th generation descendant) composing in “The Mine” during the ’50s

 

Old, original bottles that still contain their ingredients... and smell

Old, original bottles that still contain their ingredients… and smell

 

Mmm- believe it or not, this jasmine still smells fresh

Mmm- believe it or not, this jasmine still smells fresh

 

Floris family in the 70s, along with one of their ads

Floris family in the 70s, along with one of their ads

 

Edward Bodenham describes Floris: “Our story is unique. It is built on a history of creation, family values and a long lasting and effecting relationship with our customers. Sophisticated and understated, our elegance is borne from the experience, not artifice. We are a whisper not a shout. We understand the emotive power of fragrance.”

 

 

The Floris perfumers produce unique and timeless creations, all of which are given approval by Edward Bodenham, the current Floris “nose.”

Edward and his team can be found at 89 Jermyn Street in the perfumery behind the founding shop where all of the Floris fragrances have been created since 1730.

 

Soon to come to Indigo: the latest releases of their Home Collection of candle and room fragrances.